27-29 September 2013 St Maries

September 27  We had lunch today at the St. Maries Senior Meal Site with Francie and Sally and several other seniors. Friday's lunch is usually well attended. Today's menu was roast beef, squash, mashed potatoes, melon, and coconut cream pie.

The cooks and staff are proud of their efforts--no government funds support the meal site, only donations and the charges for the meals. Meals are served Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Sometimes it's a financial struggle; sometimes the noon meal is the only hot meal a a senior eats that day--companionship and food offered in clean warm surroundings. Other organizations in St. Maries have a food bank, an evening meal on Fridays, and a Thursday "Souper Supper." This little town helps its needy folks.

After lunch Francie, Bill, Patrice, and I went to a big garage sale east of town--nice stuff, and people that Francie knows (everyone in Benewah County knows Francie). We bought a few things. I took Bill with me to buy some propane and a new heater for the rig. We did some more visiting at Francie's and then had pie and ice cream at Sally's Handy Corner in the late afternoon. We were home by dark and paid the owner of H2H Bison Ranch for our stay--his excavating company keeps him busy, and I was able to catch him. He has the same number of bison as last year when we were here--no babies this year.

September 28  Late breakfast today--Amana sausage, eggs, and Yukon (brand mix) flapjacks. More rain predicted for today and tomorrow. We decided to delay going to Republic until Monday because of the rain and wind forecast. Hung around our rig until mid-afternoon then went to St. Maries.

Just before we left Patrice noticed that one of the bison was out of the fenced area. I ran and closed the main gate and then tried to find someone to re-corral the small bison. Finally found Warren's mother--she said they often let Penelope out into the main yard but only after the gates are closed. They are trying to train Penelope to be people-friendly so they can display her at fairs and shows. Warren later told us that he forgot to close the gate himself and he was grateful that I took care of it.

On our way to St. Maries we stopped in Plummer to see Denny and arrange for breakfast with him and his wife Rita tomorrow. We arrived at Francie's, visited over coffee, and headed to the Calder Store for their famous Saturday night prime rib dinner.

Calder is about 25 miles east of St. Maries and upstream on the St. Joe River. It was drizzly and a bit windy, and we saw several deer on the way. Calder is a small village with several homes and the restaurant/grocery store/post office. I found a USGS gaging station as we crossed the bridge into Calder.

What a meal--great salad bar, baked potatoes, vegetables, and the most tender, flavorful prime rib we've ever had! We came to this restaurant last year on our visit--and had the same waitress, whose name is Patrice! The dining area is full of historical pictures of logging activities in the area. Many diners were from the nearby hunting camps (elk season), and several people in camouflage jackets stopped by to greet Francie and Bill--everyone knows them.

We returned to Francie's for lemon meringue pie and coffee.

We had a great time today with Francie and Bill.

September 29  Went to an early breakfast with Partice's cousin Denny and his wife Rita at the casino near Worley, Idaho. Not a great breakfast but a good visit with Denny and Rita--lots of catching up with family news.

After returning to the rig, we paid Warren for another night and bought a pound of ground bison. Patrice and I drove around the ranch area and saw several bison calves born recently. The young ones are this copper color. Another "batch" of four calves born this spring already have the dark brown color and are larger. The little ones were trying to get some hay but were butted out of place by the larger bison bulls--it was a bit of a crowded feeding area, and they all were a bit nervous. Patrice got these pictures.

This afternoon we drove into St. Maries and went to the Art, Music, and Brews Festival with Francie and Bill. The building was full of people, vendors, and on the stage were two young men singing and playing some terrific fiddle and guitar. We were captivated.

They were billed as the Acuff Sherfey Duo, and according to the St. Maries newspaper they are "the hottest country rock duo in the Northwest." The fiddler Justin Sherfey just turned 15 and for the last five years he has finished in the top five of all US fiddlers competing at the National Championships held in Weiser, Idaho. Justin also played some fine mandolin and guitar during the performance. The guitar player (also singer) Colby Acuff was 16 and has accompanied the Justin at the championships. They hit it off and became a duo. Colby wrote some of the songs that the boys performed. Patrice and I attended the Weiser National Championships several years ago and we know how talented the entrants are and how tough the competition is. What a treat this was today.

Justin Sherfey and Colby Acuff

Justin

We shopped around at some of the craft tables and ate some hamburgers and hot dogs before leaving the event.

Marionberry pie and ice cream at Francie's ended our day.

It is possible we will move to Republic tomorrow--severe wind conditions are predicted for tonight and some of tomorrow. We understand these winds are moving to the eastern side of Washington from a major western Washington storm. We'll make our decision tomorrow morning.  

24-26 September H2H Bison Ranch and St. Maries

September 24  Moved from Clarkston, Washington, to the H2H Bison Ranch near Worley, Idaho. This working bison ranch has five RV sites with 30-amp electricity, water, and sewer hookups. Bison wander the adjacent fenced acreage, and are well cared for. During the summer season the owner cooks BBQ dinners and serves groups of guests in a large three-sided dining hall. A fire ring with chairs invites evening relaxation. Like last year when we stayed here, we are off-season to enjoy the "dude ranch" activities--we don't really miss them, though. This is quiet, pleasant, and near Patrice's relatives.

After setting up we checked with Patrice's cousin Denny in Plummer (about five miles from us), then on to St. Maries, where Patrice's mother and her siblings grew up--the Gallaghers. There were six children in the family and only Francie, the youngest, is left--she is a vibrant 81. Sally and Rosie live nearby, sisters to Denny. We met Francie and her gentleman friend Bill for dinner at Sally's Handy Corner--yes, cousin Sally owns it. Just by chance meatloaf was the dinner special--my favorite, and we all had some!

Aunt Francie at home in St. Maries   

September 25  We went into St. Maries today for lunch at the St. Maries Senior Meal Site. Francie takes the money and handles the finances for this community lunch service. Cousins Rosie and Sally showed up today to visit with us--all the family in St. Maries know Patrice as "Lollie"--a nickname that she's had since she was a baby. Ham and hotdogs in sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, corn, melon, and cookies for desert--great lunch.

After lunch Bill came over to Francie's--he lives in Fernwood, about 20 miles from St. Maries. We all spent most of the afternoon at Francie's just visiting. Bill and I took a ride to see all four of the forest products plants operating in St. Maries. They all work three shifts a day and produce a huge amount of lumber and chips--there's a huge market out there.

We visited a bit too long again this evening, and most of the 45-minute drive was in the dark and the rain. Weather's supposed to be a bit better tomorrow.

September 26  [Patrice writing today] Yup, it was better weather today. We woke to sunshine, blue sky with puffy clouds. It was a nice day for Philip's 78th birthday, and we had a pleasant time all around.

It was about an hour's drive today to the Spokane area, and to the True Legends Grill at Liberty City. There we met Russ and Patti, our next-door neighbors at our lot in North Palm Springs. They didn't come to their lot this last winter because Russ was ill. They will make it with bells on this year, probably arriving before we do. Lunch was great, conversation and company was just terrific, and it was great to see Russ his old self, full of fun and bull.

Russ and Patti

We then got some gas at Costco, did a bit of shopping, and checked out a low bridge that might give us trouble on Sunday on our way to Republic. Should be no problem with the bridge, and traffic will be light on Sunday.

Found our way to son Kriss's apartment, where he stays during the work-week and travels home to Malo in the weekends. Wife Julianne joined him this weekend because they are taking a short trip to Idaho, and Kriss won't be home until next weekend. Our grandson Kleyton is home taking care of the critters at the house; Uncle Kent and Aunt Arleen are nearby and helping out.

Kriss and Julianne

Carlos hasn't seen either one of them for a year, and talk about happy reunions! He couldn't get enough belly-rubs, loving attention, and smooches. Such a little bundle of joy.

We had dinner and made tracks for the Bison Ranch, in the dark and under starry skies. It was a great day!

20-23 September 2013 Clarkston/Lewiston ID

Friday, 20 September  We left the Wildhorse RV Park near Pendleton, Oregon, and headed north on highway 11 to Walla Walla, Washington. We turned east on highway 12  traveling through Waitsburg, Dayton, and Pomeroy to Clarkston where we are camped at the Granite Lake RV Resort on the Snake River. Beautiful drive uphill and down through the golden wheat fields of the Palouse hill country. Most of the wheat had been harvested and planting of winter wheat was in full swing.

We were fortunate to get our campsite here in Clarkston--there are many workers parked in the local RV parks while the twice-yearly maintenance on the Potlach mill is in progress. This is good for us--the sulfur odor from the plant that permeates riverside Lewiston and Clarkston will be mostly absent during our visit.

Patrice's sister, Bobbie, came from uphill Lewiston down to our park. After catching up on relatives we all headed to downtown Lewiston, for the art walk. Lots of talented people producing all kinds of artwork. A small, perfect scratch board painting of a lion's head called to us and it will fit on one of the few empty wall spaces in our RV. The participants laid out snacks and beverages in the buildings along the art walk--we ate our way through and decided we did not need dinner. So back to the rig, more talk, and we said good-night as the full harvest moon rose over the Snake River. 

Saturday, 21 September  Got up late, caught up on mail, and shopped at Costco. Then we went to Bobbie's place in uphill Lewiston. Carlos went with us--he traipsed all over Bobbie's yard and garden and barked at a bronzed cat garden ornament for a while. He was so happy to be out and about and visiting people! Bobbie cooked us a great dinner of home-made noodles and chicken, fresh tomatoes (from her garden), wild plum jam, and peach cobbler.

We visited with Bobbie and her granddaughter (Patrice's grand-niece), Heather, who is staying with her grandmother while attending Lewis and Clark College. Heather's parents and brother live in Kirkland, Washington. She's a sophomore and will be an elementary school teacher. Doing well.

Carlos found a warm lap and crashed!

Bobbie is so proud of her granddaughter

Sunday, September 22  Met Bobbie at the Lewiston Main Street Grill for a late breakfast; then up to Bobbie's place to show her some of the paintings Patrice painted in New Smyrna Beach last November. Bobbie chose one quickly, the only one she considered, and we hung it for her--there was a space just made for it in her computer room. It pleased us all!

We picked up Carlos and took us all on a drive in our truck about 15 miles up the northeast side of the Snake River--wonderful cliffs with basalt ridges, sunny day, lovely ride. We drove waaaaay up the hill to highway 195 at Colton, through the Palouse wheat fields, and finally back to Lewiston, waaaaay down the famous hill.  We had Mexican food for dinner with Bobbie and Heather (who was taking time from her studies and jobs).

Tomorrow more visiting, shopping, and getting ready to move again.

Monday, September 23   Late breakfast then some grocery shopping at Albertson's nearby. Bobbie came over for a visit after her work at the school--she substitutes in the food service program at the Lewiston schools. Carlos and I did some "man" shopping at NAPA, Auto Zone, Home Depot, and Petco.

We met Bobbie and Heather for dinner at Panda Express. They brought a small cake for my birthday (really on the 26th). Said our good-byes after dinner and returned to the rig to get ready for our move to the H2H Bison Ranch near Worley, Idaho, tomorrow.

19 September 2013 Wildhorse Casino and Resort

It was a nice drive today from Country Corners RV Park near Caldwell, Idaho, to Wildhorse RV Park near Pendleton, Oregon. Got in early so I washed the rig and Patrice cleaned out a kitchen cabinet and vacuumed the floors. I haven't washed rig since leaving North Palm Springs in May--lots of road grime and a buggy bull nose. It's nice to have rig clean inside and out. 

We ate at the Wildhorse Casino tonight and happened to catch a seafood buffet. King, snow, and Dungeness crab and lots of other good stuff (more mussels for Patrice!). On to Clarkston, Washington, tomorrow, where we will park the rig a few days. We'll spent time with Bobbie, Patrice's sister, who actually lives in Lewiston, Idaho, just across the river. 

18 September 2013 To Caldwell, Idaho

Today was an easy 190-mile drive across southern Idaho from Declo to Caldwell. However, we did have a strong headwind most of the way--sure to cut down on the gas mileage. Before we left our campground at Declo this morning Patrice had to get photos of some frisky colts in an adjacent field. There were seven mares in the field and each had a colt. They put on a show for us last night and again this morning.

Our campground last night was next to the Snake River and we crossed it again several times along I-84. One of the spectacular crossings was near Twin Falls at the southern end of the extensive lava fields in Idaho. Here we could see massive lava cliffs adjacent to the Snake River and its tributaries.

We arrived at Country Corner RV Park for the night. This little park is north of Caldwell and conveniently located just off of I-84. The sites are neat and there is green grass by each site (Carlos says Hooray!). After checking in the park owner offered us the opportunity to pick some fresh sweet corn and tomatoes from his large gardens. We did just that, and had fresh veggies and soup with wine for dinner.

Tomorrow we stay on I-84 and cross over Cabbage Mountain Pass on our way to Pendleton, Oregon, our next campground.

15, 16, and 17 September 2013 Wyoming, Utah, and Farewell to Jerry and Marge

Sunday, the 15th, we traveled 225 miles from Rawlins, Wyoming, to Coalville, Utah. It was a partly cloudy day with many sun breaks, and we dodged several thunderstorms. After we crossed the Continental Divide, we went through amazing layered walls and wind-sculpted formations, near Rock Springs and Green River--green layers, huge massifs, and blocky hoo-doos. Patrice and I must have seen more than 200 antelope in small groups in fields close to the highway.

We stopped for our picnic lunch at Little America, a mega truck stop, with a motel and gift shop. It had been advertised from far down I-80, "50-cent ice cream cones." Much to our surprise it is listed as Little America on our road map, and the population is 68.

Near the end of our travel day, we passed through a wondrous canyon that ran all the way down to where 1-80 is joined by I-84. There were huge red cliffs that were eroded into fantastic shapes--toothy skulls, bad dentures, hollow eyes, ragged windows, and lots of crooked spires! With the narrow canyon, there was absolutely no safe place to take pictures.

We camped at the Holiday Hills RV Park in Coalville, Utah. This is a strange but adequate little park. The check-in was at the office right next to a filling station, and the entrance to the park was around and next to a motel. The sites were on curved concrete pads, parallel and on either side of the road.

Monday, the 16th, Marge, Jerry, Patrice, and I drove about 15 miles into Park City, Utah. Park City hosted the Winter Olympics in 2002; there are many reminders of that along Main Street. Main Street runs straight uphill, parallel to and at the base of the huge ski area. Many art galleries, clothing boutiques, antique stores, cafes and restaurants, and other shops lined the streets. We browsed a bit, and bought some chocolate.

Us with me eating chocolate

The hills were alive with fancy homes, condos, apartments and hotels! A very pricey atmosphere prevailed in the decor and landscaping of the homes.

We stopped for some groceries before we headed for home--from the store's parking lot we had a clear view of the Olympic ski jumps.

Back at the park we had our last "happy hour" together on this trip. Jerry and Marge brought out a bottle of champaign--we toasted each other for an awesome trip to the Maritime Provinces. It was a great trip to share with good friends and we will always remember it.

As an aside, I calculated that we had put 15,433 miles on our pickup from North Palm Springs, California, to Coalville, Utah, and 8,229 miles of that was in the Maritimes. I will calculate and enter the miles put on our fifth wheel later. We are fortunate to have traveled across the "tornado alley" area of the U.S. twice without encountering any, and to have avoided any hurricane activity while on the East Coast and in the Maritimes.

We went into Coalville for some gas and looked for a restaurant--there wasn't much there, so we went to the Subway. The cashier asked us if we had a points card, and when we told her we were just passing through she said, "Well, when you have the best food in town, most everyone in town has one because they eat here at least once a week." It was pretty good, too, for a Subway. 

We had our last Gramma Marge's ice cream social tonight also.

Marge

Jerry

Today, Tuesday the 17th, we left Coalville, Utah and drove to Declo, Idaho. Leaving this morning was kinda sad, saying goodbye to Marge and Jerry who are headed west and south toward their home in Banning, California, and Patrice and I are headed north and east to visit relatives and friends in Idaho, Washington, and Oregon, Nevada, and California before returning to our winter lot in North Palm Springs, California. We will miss sharing our adventures with them and Carlos is already moping around not seeing them every day.

Our trip today began with some spectacular scenery on I-84 north and around Salt Lake City. There were more red cliffs, and layered monoliths jutting out of the rounded hills. Patrice spotted two small natural arch bridges (!) on either side of the highway up in the cliffs.

The road took us through some deep and narrow canyons with geologic formations we've never seen. One particularly awesome scene is called the Devil's Slide. Luckily there was a small roadside stop directly across from it in this narrow canyon.

Devil's Slide - side view from the west

Straight on view

A truck passes, notice the barrier narrowly separating the small parking area

There were many similar ridges like those of the Devil's Slide up and down this canyon, and the hills had rounded white tracks of this type of rock, as if the layers had been laid sideways in the earth--the trees and shrubs grew in the ground in the rows between.

After turning north at Ogden, Utah, we traveled through about 30 miles of commercial development along the Great Salt Lake then through about 70 miles of farm lands and mountains in Utah and Idaho. At the rest stop just north of the Idaho border we learned about the ancient Bonneville Lake that was created about 20,000 years ago. It had no river outlet leading to the ocean, and sat in the surrounding basin. Eventually it filled up and overflowed into the Snake River. Much later the lake dried up and left the desert area and the Great Salt Lake as a remnant.

As we continued, we saw thunderstorms developing. Our weather ap on our phone signaled that we were in an area of strong thunderstorm activity. We skirted around two storms areas (fortunate again) with only a few drops of rain before reaching our RV park, Village of the Trees RV Resort in Declo, Idaho, for the night. After setting up we received a tornado warning--none occurred and all was well.

On to Caldwell tomorrow.


    

14 September 2013 Rawlins

Yesterday, Friday the 13th of September, we traveled 225 miles in rain and fog to Cheyenne, Wyoming, elevation 6,200 feet. Patrice fixed a great dinner using the smoked pork chops we bought in the Amana Colonies. We had a few major thunderstorms with heavy rainfall from about 7 to 11 p.m. Very tough day driving and scary night with weather alerts of flash flooding in our area. I-29 south of Cheyenne was closed completely.

Today we woke to clear skies and headed to Rawlins, Wyoming. Our first rest stop was at a newly remodeled information center on I-80 just east of Laramie, elevation 8,640. This center looked new, and had bright displays about the history, wildlife, farmlands, and mountain sports and outdoor recreation opportunities in Wyoming. This is the land of Butch Cassady and the Sundance Kid, as well as Tom Horn (remember the Steve McQueen movie?). A section of the exhibits commemorated the United States's first transcontinental highway, the Lincoln Highway. It was dedicated in 1913 and ran from New York to San Francisco. I-80 follows much of the old Lincoln Highway.

In 1958 a project to erect a memorial honoring Lincoln on top of Sherman Hill, the highest point on the highway was begun. A 13.5 foot high bronze bust was designed and created by Robert I. Russin, a University of Wyoming professor. The sculpture was to be done by the sesqui-centennial of Abraham Lincols's birth. The bust took 11 months and 10 tons of clay to complete. The 4,500 pound bust was formed and cast in Mexico City, transported to Wyoming by rail, and placed atop a 35-foot tall granite stone base.

It was placed at the building on the old summit. After Interstate-80 was completed, the memorial was moved to the new summit visitor center, actually at a lower elevation than the old summit, about a mile west. It is an impressive sight, and the blue sky with clouds made a grand backdrop.

Patrice found these flowers near the memorial and found me and Carlos chilling out on a nearby bench.

The rest of the drive to Rawlins was through the beautiful great basin. The recent rains greened the landscape with tasty grass for the many pronghorn antelope we sighted--there must have been over 300 that we saw, in groups of 20 to 50. We passed through several valleys bounded by rock outcroppings and through road cuts exposing interesting geology.

There was no rain on the way, thank goodness, and thunderheads danced around us. Patrice is fascinated with clouds, and after we set up in Rawlins, she took some photos from the lot.

We were able to enjoy a "happy hour" with Jerry and Marge; it got cold after our popcorn, so we went in. Then the deluge began--thunder and lightning, and we watched some new arrivals trying to set up their fifth wheels in the downpour.

Patrice and I drove into town for a terrific dinner at a Thai restaurant. We were surprised--we haven't seen any Thai restaurants for ages. Our routine 8:00 ice cream social with Marge and Jerry ended our day in Rawlins.

On westward tomorrow to Coalville, Utah.

12 September 2013 North Platte, Nebraska

Today we visited the Golden Spike Tower, Union Pacific's Bailey Yard at North Platte, the largest railroad yard in the world. The 8-mile long railroad yard has 315 miles of track, and the tower gives spectacular views from the 7th floor open observation deck and the 8th floor enclosed observation deck.

Golden Spike Tower

Union Pacific Bailey Yard

The location for the yard was selected because it was mid way between St. Louis and Cheyene and the first train passed through it in 1866. The yard, named after a former Union Pacific president employs 2,600 people. It has 985 switches and handles 155 trains and 10,000 railroad cars every day. The cars are sorted through two hump yards (elevated mounds that allow individual rail cars to be sorted for their outbound destinations). The switches are controlled electronically, with computers keeping track of what trains are being built.

The trains are then moved out to a preparation track, and the carman hooks up the hoses and the brakes, readying everything for the engine to be put on the front, and the train moves out. No loading or unloading of the cars is done in this yard. Containers are loaded on special flatcars, and may have come off a ship in San Francisco or Seattle (or Tacoma) and be headed for Chicago.

East bound hump yard

Note cars traveling down the hump (in the distance to the left and 

below the storage tanks) to their designated train

The intricacies of keeping track of all the cars is mind boggling! The computers keep track of each car, who owns it, what's in it (especially important when transporting hazardous materials), where it's come from and where it's going. 

Diesel engine overhauls are preformed at the locomotive repair shop located within the yard. Over 10,000 sets of car wheels are also replaced at this shop. Union Pacific's massive locomotives use 14 million gallons of diesel every month. The five-minute video introduction at the tower said that crews were sent to Nascar pits to learn how to efficiently and quickly get repairs done, so that the locomotives would be out of service for as short a times as possible.

Locomotive Repair shop

We learned that the locomotives actually run on electricity from on-board generators powered by the diesel engines. The engineers adjust the amount of electricity going to the wheel motors in order to control the speed of the engine. Each locomotive is equipped with sand tanks that are filled at the yard's sand tower; sand is automatically applied to the tracks whenever the wheels spin or an emergency stop is triggered.

Sand tower--the train with the lights on is being

filled with sand at the left tower

The Golden Spike Tower also had a display describing the 1850-1930 movement by trains of 200,000 homeless and orphaned children from the streets and slums of east coast cities to the farmlands of the mid-west. They were called "Orphan Trains" and "Baby Trains." 

Another display described the activities of the North Platte Canteen. Started on December 25, 1941, more than 6 million servicemen being carried east on troop trains were met at the North Platte Union Pacific Depot and given food and drinks by volunteers from North Platte and from 125 communities. The canteen took great pride in knowing that not one penny of local, state, and federal money was used. This 10-minute stop on the way to war zones made a difference to many young soldiers away from their families--it was caring and cookies, concern and sandwiches. When the war ended, the trains were bringing soldiers the other direction--the North Platte Canteen still helped. It finally closed up shop on April 1, 1946, a job well done.

Grocery shopping, truck refueling, dinner at Applebees, and ice cream at 8:00 (Gramma Marge is known for her 8:00 ice cream) ended our stay in North Platte. On to Cheyene tomorrow.  

    

11 September 2013 Across Nebraska

We left the Double Nickle RV Campground near Waco, Nebraska, at 7:20 this morning in order to get to Grand Island, Nebraska by 9:00--our appointment with Rich & Sons RV Sales and Service to get our broken shackle plates repaired. The Trail Air suspension system that we had installed years were unique to the brand; fortunately the shop had identical plates that could be used. The shackles came in a kit, so the two broken plates were replaced, and the other six that had not broken were also replaced. The original connecting bolts were also replaced.

This Rich & Sons business was amazing! They had repair bays and parts service, and about 12 RVs displayed in an indoor showroom. The RV store was huge, and they had shelf displays that reminded me of Camping World. There was a comfy waiting room, with upholstered couches and chairs, and the restrooms looked like a page from Architectural Digest--modern fixtures, stone inlay detailing on the walls--sleek, fresh, and clean.

Patrice, Marge, Jerry, and I had breakfast at Granny Max's restaurant near the repair shop--good food there, part of a large Pilot travel center. Once the repairs were complete, we hit I-80 once again, heading west. The sky poured heavy rain on and off all day; even so the driving was easy. It was a beautiful drive along the Platte River through flat fields of corn and soybeans. Several herds of black angus cattle grazed in the open fields.

We made it to the Holiday RV Park in North Platte, Nebraska. Both of us had a 15 percent off coupon given to us at the Nebraska Welcome Center. As we got settled, there was more rain--a real deluge as we found the post office and picked up large packages of General Delivery mail forwarded to us.

Applebees was nearby, and an easy dinner for us. We have spent the evening going through the mail as we watched TV programs remembering the 9-11 attacks--replays of the 10 year anniversary programs, most of which we hadn't seen.

We'll be here two days, resting up, doing laundry. This is the town of Wild Bill Cody, and the world's largest train yard.

10 September 2013 Iowa into Nebraska

[Patrice is writing this blog-posting]

Yesterday (Monday, 9 September) we left Amana, expecting a very warm day. We continued across middle Iowa on Interstate 80, with lots of conversation about farming practices and crops grown. We agreed that Iowa was a "corny" state! The corn fields were turning brown, as were the soybean fields.

Along the freeway there were some signs that caught my notice:

--The town of What Cheer, Iowa

--"Brooklyn, Iowa, A Community of Flags"

--"Bar None Cowboy Church" [near Newton]

Philip worked for the US Geological Survey, Water Resources Division in Iowa City, and measured many of the rivers and streams near I-80. He tells a story:

Sometime in the early 60's, I-80 had just opened. He drove the new family Plymouth Station Wagon down to the freeway--there wasn't another car in sight. The speedometer on the dash showed up to 120 miles per hour, so he got the Plym to go 120 miles per hour. . .and a Jaguar passed him like he was standing still!

When we passed over the North Skunk River and the South Skunk River, he said that he had never seen the rivers so low. The Des Moines River was also very low--Philip built a gaging station on the Des Moines River at Des Moines (gaging stations are usually titled "such-and-such river" at "nearest post office").

It was a short drive today--we made it to Cutty's Des Moines Camping Club before noon--it was actually located in Grimes, Iowa.

This morning we anticipated a very hot day of driving, so we left at 8:00 am--we started out with puffy clouds in a blue sky, and 79 degrees.

More freeway observations:

At the Elkhorn, Iowa, exit, signs:
--"Danish Immigrant Museum"
--"Danish Windmill"
--"Danish Village"
--"Danish Winery"

Nishnabotna River and the West Nishnabotna River

Rest area in Pottawatomie County

Exit to Wahoo, Nebraska

After seeing many, many huge wind turbines on the countryside, and seeing their blades being transported one at a time eastbound on I-80, we were surprised by an upright blade, mounted like a monument at a Iowa Department of Transportation Rest Area in Adair County. It was very dramatic.

  Wind turbine blade upright at rest stop

(top third)  

The building was amazing, filled with murals and plaques explaining the history of wind energy usage and the development of the wind farms in Adair County (also including nearby Cass County). The floor and walls were imbedded with lines representing the power grid--black lines in gray polished marble. Manufacturers, architects, designers of all sorts contributed the making of the rest stop--the fanciest the I've been in along the freeways.

 One of several picnic table shelters

Described as the idea of old windmills in motion

One of several murals inside the building (this one by the Men's)

We crossed the Missouri River into Omaha, Nebraska. It was 86 degrees out.

When we crossed the Platte River, it was 95 degrees.

We arrived at the Double Nickle Campground in Waco, Nebraska, about 2 pm. Drenching rain and thunder and lightening have been happening on and off since we parked. Carlos has had a difficult time with it.

Marge and Jerry noticed that our 5th wheel was leaning to the driver's side as they followed us down the road (we alternate leaders). Discovered that one of the shackles on the suspension system is broken. After some calls to the manufacturer and local RV repair shops, we have an appointment tomorrow morning with a shop in Grand Island, about 50 miles down I-80 from here. 8 am, so we will be getting up early and on the road.

8 September 2013 Main Amana

We spent the entire day in main Amana doing the tourist thing. First we drove to the far east end of Amana where we visited the Woolen Mill, Millstream Brewing Co., Kitchen Sink, and Furniture & Clock Shop. The Amana Woolen Mill was our first stop. We watched a short video on the history of the mill, and the equipment and process used to make woolen items. The mill was established in 1857 and all kinds of woolen goods were made there until 1923 when a blast at the nearby flour mill destroyed most of the mill buildings and equipment. A W-3 loom used to make blankets survived the blast and a later model of it is on display in the room where blankets are still being made.

Woolen and cotten blankets, throws, and scarves are now being made at the mill and the modern computerized looms make them in short order. Amana Woolen Mill products as well as other clothing items are stocked in the sales store--fashionable styles for men and women, and hats and accessories. 

W-3 loom at the Amana Woolen Mill

Computer-driven blanket loom at the Amana Woolen Mill

A 6.5 mile mill race was begun in 1865 and completed in 1869, dug by the Amanas and drawn off the Iowa River. It provided water power to the woolen and flour mills. Year by year the mill race silted in, and dredging was done with difficulty until a steam-powered dredger was purchased by the Amana society. A team of men lived and worked on the dredge, with the nearest colony providing food for the workers. It is said that the portion of the race nearest West Amana is the deepest because the food was so good in that colony area. 

After the mills cut back operation in the 1980's the mill race was used for hydro-power electricity, enough for about 125 homes. The levees for the mill race were damaged by heavy flooding of the Iowa River in 1993 that made electricity production impossible. Its usefulness was ended. Patrice took this photo of the race and a smoke stack for the woolen mill near it.

Amana mill race

After some shopping at the mill we wandered across the street the the Millstream Brewing Co. where we sampled and purchased some beer (Amber and Stout). 

 Millstream Brewing Co.

Marge an Jerry tasting beer at the Millstream Brewing Co.

We visited the Amana Furniture and Clock Shop makes the world famous and beautiful Amana grandfather clocks and wonderful solid, traditional furniture--made from solid walnut, cherry, and other hardwoods. A gallery observation deck allows visitors to observe the woodworkers at their jobs. Some of their work benches are from the early era of the original furniture builders. 

We had lunch at Serena's again. The local restaurants serve lunches family style, with cottage cheese, coleslaw, sauerkraut, potatoes, gravy, vegetables, bread, jam and the entree. We just wanted a light lunch, and today's beefy onion soup was wonderful.

In central Amana we visited antique, craft, and gift shops and stopped for some ice cream. The hot and humid day was tiring us out by this time so we decided to visit a couple quilt shops and the Amana Meat Shop and Smokehouse, and call it a day. The Good Quilts shop had mostly outdoor metal ornaments, thrift-shop junky stuff, and about 25 quilts for sale--all made in China! Patrice and Marge left there rather quickly. The Heritage Designs Quilting and Needlework shop "an inspiration" said the ladies. Dozens of quilts and wall hangings were displayed as models for the kits for sale. The old barn was bright and airy, and the bolts of cloth, notions, books, embriodery threads, fat quarters and eights, were engaging and fun for the ladies to look at.

We ended our visit to Amana at the Meat Shop and Smokehouse where Patrice and I bought some of the famous Amana sausage, bratts, and ham. Patrice and I drove 15 miles to the town of Marengo to scout out our route for tomorrow--looking for smoother road for pulling our fifth wheels than when we came in.

We enjoyed our visit to the Amana Colonies, and we notice with sadness some of the inevitable changes in the flavor. There are fewer of the local Amana people running the businesses--many outside businesses rent the buildings. It is harder to find many of the older buildings--they have been covered with aluminum siding, and the trellises that were a recognizable feature are gone. There are many more modern homes in the outlying colonies. Thank goodness the museums are preserving some of the old ways--we loved going into the communal kitchen and the cooperage, for instance. More recreational tours and walking and hiking trails are offered. Change is inevitable, and survival by offering more tourist opportunities is understandable.

Tomorrow we forge ahead, ever westward.   

7 September 2013 In the Amanas

Patrice and I started the day with breakfast at the Colony Restaurant in Amana. We had the only breakfast offered--a family style feast of eggs, sausage, bacon, fruit, orange juice, toast and strawberry jam, and fried potatoes. In the true Amana style it was all you could eat of every breakfast item.

Later in the morning Jerry, Marge, Patrice, and I decided to visit five of the colonies away from main Amana; it's Saturday, and the outlying colonies' businesses are more likely to be closed on Sundays. Homestead was the first colony we visited. Relying on maps of various attractions, we had decided to visit Henry's Village Market--as we turned into the parking lot, we noticed the Homestead Blacksmith Shop. As we entered the shop we were greeted by a man and young woman who was operating a pedal-driven letterpress printing machine.

Turns out the man was a professor from the University of Iowa teaching a young graduate student about the evolution of printing over time. Jessica, the student, was in the process of printing sheet with a quotation over an already printed background of green grasses. The background printing had been done from carved linoleum blocks set into a printing frame and run through the press. Marge and Patrice each received a copy. The professor was a wealth of knowledge on old printing machines, particularly on the linotype that was also installed in the shop. The professor explained the operation of the linotype to Jerry; his uncle was a linotype operator.

Printing machine at Homestead blacksmith shop

 The letterpress printer

The linotype

After spending some time in the shop Patrice and I visited Henry's Village Market. It was a small grocery operating in the old Homestead smoked meat shop (each colony used to have their own). Henry was a young man who stocked his little store with deli items, and an assortment of mostly organic products. A room adjacent to the shop displayed antiques for sale. The store was nothing fancy or particularly large--Henry and his family liked the simple life they were leading and loved the store and the peaceful surroundings.

Zuber's Homestead Hotel was just down the street. When Patrice and I last visited the colonies about 10 years ago (as near as we can remember), Zuber's was a restaurant that also displayed baseball memorabilia that Mr. Zuber had collected when he played major league baseball. He has passed on, the restaurant was sold and converted to the hotel, and most of the memorabilia is with the Zuber family. Wandering the halls, we looked into open rooms in the hotel. They are furnished and decorated with antique reproduction furniture, and some antique chairs and nightstands. The walls are covered with hooked rugs, farm implements, framed needlework of all sorts, photographs of old families, and paintings of farm scenery and activities. One bedroom had a king-sized bed, a triangular jetted tub in the corner, and a full bathroom attached. It rents for $135 a night. Other rooms cost less--it would be fun to stay there a night or two.

Finally, we stopped at a copper art shop in Homstead. This shop is in an old service and filling station. The copper art was fantastic--beautiful work: butterflies, herons, flowers of all sorts and sizes, fish--just too big to put in our 5th wheel.

I'm leaning on a praying mantis

At West Amana where we visited the broom and basket shop. Patrice bought a broom--the worlds largest solid walnut rocker was in a nearby museum room, along with baskets and other art pieces.

Patrice and I were sad to see that the broom and basket shop had been moved out the original little building into a new modern building, and that many wood items were added to the inventory, same items as in the Schanz furniture store we visited yesterday. Some of the items were from Iowa artists, not connected with the Amanas. Economic pressures of the times I guess. We drove around West Amana and looked at some of the original brick and wood homes, then returned to Main Amana for lunch at Serena's Coffee Shop. Marge and Jerry have a granddaughter named Serena. I had an old-fashioned root beer float and a cup of soup for lunch.

Back to High Amana where we visited the High Amana General Store. This store is also a museum--the contents have been preserved from the old times that this stores was open. Items were for sale among the museum pieces that were behind glass cases or on high shelves. No tax on the items purchased here, because it is part of the National Historic Landmark designation given to the Amana Colonies. Here, as in the other colonies, we drove around looking at the old and new homes and buildings, and even found an old cemetery. 

On to Middle Amana where we visited the Communal Kitchen and Cooper Shop museums. A lady in the kitchen explained how all of the communal meals were prepared and served in the building every day, until the Great Change of 1932. 60 kitchens were spread throughout the colonies, each serving 30 to 40 people every day. Five meals were served daily: breakfast at 6:00, a morning lunch at 8:30, dinner at 11:30, afternoon lunch at 2:30, and supper at 5:00. In the dining room a week of menus were posted and the tables were set as if for a meal. Diners were expected to finish their meal in 15 minutes, and conversation was discouraged.

The cooperage shop was set up as if ready to have work done; we were interested in some of the unique tools (curved planes) used to make barrels and working buckets. There was no one watching over the shop, and we were surprised at the items that were left loose.

This ended our day's visits to the colonies located within the original 26,000 acres of land owned by the Amana Society.

Patrice and I had dinner at the Ronneburg restaurant in Amana. Patrice had the "baked beef steak," which turned out to be a Swiss steak. I had walleye; it was overcooked, with the breading too crisp. We still like the Ox-Bow Restaurant best, just thought we would try something different.

We saved tomorrow to visit the shops in Amana.