9 August 2013 Grand Pre, flowers and birds

This morning we returned to the Grand Pre National Historic Site to revisit the interpretive center and tour the grounds. Last evening we drove out to the present dykes surrounding the private farmlands that lie within the Unesco Heritage designated areas and pondered if these dykes were constructed by the Acadians. Today we found a Parks Canada employee who explained that the dykes constructed by the Acadians were much smaller than the present dykes. These dykes were constructed by the English planters who settled the area after the Acadians were displaced; they are now maintained by the Province. There were several Acadian dykes that enclosed small individual fields within the present site; many of them were destroyed. Unfortunately none of the Acadian dykes that still exist are open to the public but there are plans to create a visitor viewpoint of one, if arrangements can be made with the landowners. The introductory film showed a working dyke outlet--there are a few yet intact.

After revisiting some of the exhibits we had missed in the center we did a self guided-tour of the grounds. The first stop was the memorial church, built in 1922 on the believed site of the original parish church and nearby cemetery of St. Charles des Mines. A statue of Evangeline has been erected on the path leading to the church.

Several paintings on the walls of the church depict the arrival of the Acadians in Grand Pre, their daily lives, and their deportation. A two-dimensional photographic depiction and narration of the Acadians during the deportation process as experienced by two children of one of the families is in an alcove. This excellent narration drove home the trauma experienced by the Acadians during the deportation.

A large stained glass window over the front entrance presents the upheaval and emotions of the traumatic events.

Women and children left on shore during deportation

 Men waving from boat to women and children on shore

On the way out of the church we noticed "Evangeline," a 17-year-old cat who lives in the church and wanders the grounds. 

Evangeline

A blacksmith shop much like an original Acadian shop has has been moved to the site. I was particularly interested in the structure used to shoe oxen. The oxen were placed in the slings, raised up so that there feet were off of the floor, their legs were strapped to the sides of the structure, and then the shoes were hammered on to their hooves. 

Oxen shoeing structure

A typical well, bust of Longfellow, and a memorial cross built from foundation stones found on the site were erected along a path in the gardens.

Typical well used by the Acadians

Bust of Longfellow and Memorial Cross   

Finally we strolled around the beautiful gardens. Lovely lower beds were precisely planted. We think that someone must come out and dead-head the plants about every day--it all was so perfect.

Patrice among the flowers 

Lilypads and blooms in the duck pond

Many huge trees accented the gardens. One weeping willow tree had the largest trunk we have ever seen.

Patrice, Marge, and Jerry at weeping willow trunk

 Marge and Jerry at another weeping willow

After visiting the Grand Pre we stopped by the shore next to our campground to catch a low tide. We were fortunate to catch some semipalmated (web-footed) sandpipers feeding on the mud flats exposed by the low tide. The flocks whipped and dove, separated and joined again as a huge unit, looking like a choreographed ballet, with the noise of wings and lots of chirping. For a few minutes, a peregrine falcon darted and dove among the birds--we couldn't tell if he got a meal or not.  

Feeding on shore

 Flying in unison

These sand pipers are finch-sized, smaller than the ones we see on the Oregon coast. Sand pipers are present in Nova Scotia during July and August, building all the fat they will need for the longest leg of their flight South America. They will fly non-stop 3,000 miles in 72 hours over the ocean to their winter areas in the south. 

We had lunch in nearby Wolfville at Paddy's Pub. I had "bangers and mash" (sausages and mashed potatoes). The sausages were made on the premises. Patrice had steamed mussels (again!) and a spinach salad. She has eaten more mussels than any other seafood this trip.

A little looking around and shopping in Wolfville, then back to the campground. It has been raining buckets and barrels since soon after we arrived home. Even so, we had a planning session with Jerry and Marge for our trip to Prince Edward Island, coming up soon.

Tomorrow to Amherst.